Naomi is the definition of ‘That Girl’. Pulling off grunge and making it look chic is no small feat. Naomi even makes Perry Ellis look feminine. I love the intentionality Marc Jacobs put in layering. Breaking down pieces is smart from a sales perspective, but grunge was unfortunately, as Marc Jacobs learned, more about a full look, not making individual sales.
The 90s was about layering, yes, but it was also about attitude. No one did this better than Tyra Banks. She swayed to the beat of her own drum on the Perry Ellis runway. Perry Ellis didn’t look super grunge on Tyra, it looked borderline preppy, but I loved it. The silhouettes are feminine, the jewel color is retro, and the layering is sexy. All 90s style codes.
The vinyl trend is back in general. But this silhouette and vinyl combo is classic 90s. Not to mention the braids hairstyle. I love how many pieces could be derived from this Helmut Lang style. A crop top, a dress, a tank, a matching top and bottom leather moment - so much.
There is no dressing this up or down. This Missoni dress is definitely a cocktail or party number. When it comes to styling, this would look sick with a trench and knee high boots, I’m thinking either black or brown. It’s 90s but not too on the nose.
Jean Paul Gaultier did couture 90s exceptionally well. Every It Girl had a version of this dress for a casual date night or for a red carpet. The bodice feels like a singular corset and the skirt’s uneven hems are super reminiscent of the 90s. It’s so retro it feels modern.
The layering of 90s John Paul Gaultier was nonchalant, making it all the more cool. Proportion, sense, flattery, none of it mattered, and yet the final result was always intentional. Phoebe Buffay was on to something.
Ann Demeulemeester was tired of the same old silhouettes. She wanted something classic and feminine. in 1997 she filled her runway with an asymmetrical cut that became a signature in the 90s. A LBD with this shape was necessary.
Ann Demeulemeester was not playing games in ‘97, clearly. This menswear inspired fit is stunning. And doesn’t overdo the boxiness we see in a lot of women’s 90s suits. The color is stunning and Demeulemeester’s signature cut is found in the blouse underneath.
While there was a lot of new shapes and silhouettes in the 90s, one that started to take off was oversized trousers and an oversized blouse. Black and white but Demeulemeester made sure it didn’t look like a waiter’s outfit. I’m going to replicate this look soon.
No one popped off more than John Galliano in the 90s. His unique and insanely creative designs were lusted by every celebrity but the element of avant garde is timeless. Galliano had a moment in the 90s and looking for inspirational art on clothes is a great way to reference him.
Adding other touches of contrast to his clothes reminds Galliano’s fans that perfection is boring. A seemingly simple dress becomes more interesting and more flattering by stamping a pair of hands on the waist. The 90s were a great time for avant garde, John Galliano didn’t let us forget it.
It’s so flattering and elegant. It honestly gives Chanel energy. We don't always think of the 90s as a decade where feminine designs were paramount, but Comme de Garçons does give it a breath of fresh air in this ‘97 runway. The high neck cowl detailing is divine.
